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Best for: Structured A-line, column and ball gowns 20

Recommended styling: Jacket construction: - Single-breasted with a low button stance creating a deep V-line - This deep V elongates the torso and slims the overall appearance - Avoid double-breasted styles, which add horizontal emphasis at the widest point - Structured shoulders provide balance with the midsection Lapel choice: - Peak lapels draw the eye upward toward the face - Moderate width rather than narrow, which can appear unbalanced - Shawl collars can work but may soften the silhouette too much Fabric considerations: - Darker shades minimise visual weight - Avoid heavy fabrics that add bulk - Matte or low-sheen fabrics are more forgiving than high-shine options Trouser adjustments: - Higher rise provides comfort and a smooth line under the waistcoat - Adequate room through the seat and thigh - Slight taper from knee to ankle for a clean finish - Flat front or single pleat depending on comfort preference The importance of proper buttoning: - A jacket that buttons without strain is essential - There should be no X-shaped pull lines across the midsection - When buttoned, a fist should still fit comfortably inside the jacket Accessory strategy: - A cummerbund provides a clean transition from jacket to trouser - Vertical elements (the bow tie, the lapel line, the shirt placket) create lengthening - Avoid wide, bulky watches or oversized cufflinks that add horizontal emphasis 3.3

Joe waited until after he retired, and then contacted the press agent who organised the shoot to set up a date

New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1976

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